Suitable styles
The forsythia are all upright forms for bonsai design. With the broom and the free-form erect form work always best. For the strictly upright form, the forsythia is less suitable, this form would not be very credible. Even a forest design does not bring the desired effect. The forsythia has also played a bonsai out more like a shrub. Group plantings are again possible. A cascade-like shape is achieved more with the Japanese F.suspensa forsythia. This species grows with drooping branches and blooms thus easier in a cascade form. The F. x intermedia blooms abundantly with upright branches. Also interesting are the ways in which the roots are brought to the fore. The root stem form (neagari) and "roots of rock (seki-joju) can be a particularly good shape forsythia. Several times I have the strong growth of the roots at the forsythia are addressed here. Why should this not take in a design?
As an example I show the development of a forsythia in the "roots of rock" - form. This form can only work with a young plant. It is first important that the plant is still young and pliable roots of the design. Thus, a young plant is obtained when cuttings in the field can grow two years of control. In the spring you dig out a suitable young plant and prepare first, before the root ball. In both styles, root stem and roots of rock, the initial setup is similar. We explored the root ball. Too thick, no longer pliable roots to cut off the first step. Then you remove all the roots that grow radially. In these forms we need only vertically growing roots. At the root of progenitor Look out for the beautiful spiral out roots. For the first potting choose a deep pot. Then they planted the tree so that even a part of the roots are exposed. Since these roots are still soft, they shaded the first few weeks. It then forms a quick bark, and then these roots are hardy and can be exposed to sunlight. The tree is allowed to grow out of control now.
A two-year seedling from the stool bed, is fixed to a Kuststoffleine tied to a stone.
planted in a deep pot, let the tree is expected to grow undisturbed.
free After six months of growth.
after one year. The stone must now carefully placed free.
should first develop only the roots.
At the root of rock-form one proceeds similarly. You cut away all too thick and lateral roots. Then attached to the tree on the stone. This can well use a plastic rope. It damages the roots and can not later have left no traces, slightly removed. Now pots to give a tree in a deep clay pot. Allow the tree for a year, grow without pruning, in the pot. In the example shown here, a rock form, they note the choice of raw materials. There was a young multi-stemmed plant, which brought only a few really good conditions for a bonsai.
After a year and two months. The tree is already in a bowl. The fresh roots are even with moss protected from the sun.
after two years. The crown is more dense and all the roots of the stone are exposed. The roots thicken very quickly.
after three years. One stems removed. Now, the next few years the gap will be filled in the bud.
after four years. The crown is getting attractive. The roots are already a hard place and the stone gets patina. Everything fits.
In a Forsythia can be the root and the later form is easy. You have to have it not necessarily very good starting material. In fact, one in healthy young plant, they look only at the roots emerge. Is the good, can usually create a beautiful tree.
Next spring pots you then. The pot will be penetrated by roots completely, so that the stone and the attached roots by looking only once. As it should, of course, proceed with caution. Quick one has cut away the false roots.
Did they all tightly bound roots is exposed to determine that this clasping the stone already laid. The enormous Root growth of the forsythia here brings rapid results. Now the tree is already first in a training cup. Since the roots are still sensitive to light, they should shade with sphagnum moss. You can remove the moss, then gradually more and after a few weeks, the roots are exposed to full sun. These roots will then form a quick bark. In order to thicken the roots and the trunk is allowed to cast out first the forsythia continue long. You can cut them back in August again, but then they can continue to winter driving. In the spring cut them after the shoot, back to the first pair of leaves of a branch, then drop them again as last year grow uncontrollably. In this way one quickly gets a thicker trunk. Cuts close quickly and naturally, the roots thicken over the stone. In the first two years developed the strain approach and a first branch. In the third year after the basic design can begin on the fine branching of the forsythia. After five years, they have a beautiful bonsai.
When forsythia one has often bald patches on long branches. When a pruning can not resolve this shortcoming, helps a Ablaktieren a branch to fill the gap. Under the Raffiaverband, this branch ablaktierte a bud, which can then drive out sideways. She has already made and the bald area fills up gradually.
After six years ago. The upper part of the crown is mature and bloom abundantly all right. Also a good fine branching is reached. The right road to be built up even further. Here the flower is not very intensive and lacks fine branching. The graphical effect of flower and stone, in my opinion, very good. It's missing is a more suitable color dish. There is probably no other plant species that can be designed so rapidly to a bonsai. The shown forsythia over a stone was already in the fifth year after the cutting was cut, presentable.
0 comments:
Post a Comment