cuttings
When raising a Forsythienbonsai in Shohingröße is always worth the way over the cuttings.
cut your cuttings after flowering. In my experiments I have cuttings of weak growth and cut by fast-growing branches. The cuttings of low-growing branches look more interesting from a Shohin. They have short internodes and already some movement. While cuttings from strongly growing branches always look very sparrig. The internodes are often very long and so is the first piece of stem from our cutting straight and can no longer be formed. Here they must find a middle ground.
In Torfquelltöpfchen we see immediately if the cuttings have rooted. Now they are including the potty just planted in a flower pot and stay there until next spring.
the first repotting it is very important to remove the vertically growing roots. The only way to be able to develop a broad Nebari.
beginners tend to accept this when they cut a cutting and they eventually grow a bonsai. This is of course nonsense. To get a good Bonsai should be cut a lot of cuttings, at least 20 pieces. During the development of the cuttings can happen a lot. Each seedling is developing, in spite of identical conditions, different. Sun sieved the good cuttings over the years, again and again and it will be less and less. In the end, the best pupil is over and we are proud to have developed a beautiful bonsai from a cutting.
The early summer is a good time to cut cuttings. The fresh branches should be slightly lignified.
cuttings they can cut with a sharp knife or scissors. Always cut on a diagonal right nodes (leaf nodes). Do not cut between the nodes, since there the hollow areas of the branch are located. Root hormone can be used to obviously, but it is not absolutely necessary. Your cuttings are so rooted in three to four weeks. As a plug substrate, they can take simple Torfquelltöpfchen or just wet pumice. The forsythia rooted in virtually any substrate. Of course, should the plant substrate do not contain fertilizer.
If your cuttings are rooted, plant them this until next spring in a flower pot. Until then, they do nothing to the roots, which are intended to strengthen the first, a little.
After the first root section. Only radially growing Roots are obtained. As you can see this delicate little plant wants to grow like a wide Nebari.
A cutting in the first year. The holey leaves are formed in a hail storm.
the second repotting has already developed a small root thickening.
optimal root development. Again all are removed vertically growing roots.
The following year they take the cuttings from all over the world. Now begins directly Design. Here, we make nothing but the stems that are not yet interested. Important first is a proper design of the root approach. All vertically growing roots, we must remove, they are not good enough to take root thickening at, in addition to our tree so later fit into a shallow dish. In the radially growing roots, we must establish a balance. From all sides, the roots grow right tight. Fits you at this early stage, not the fast-growing areas of the weaker, later you will reach no more Nebari really good. Did you cut the roots, is given to the young plants back for a year a suitable pot. As a substrate for such young plants has proven himself to me for the first two years, a mixture of coarse peat and Akadama.
After a year in the pond planting basket. Looks OK so far, but it would be much more growth possible. The leaves are a little pale in the summer heat.
Potted in blazing heat. So far, all cuttings had survived. This action has also been no failures. Forsythia are enormously resilient. has
The root ball develops in most cuttings very good.
forsythia have a tremendous root growth. They often stand out in the summer out in small pots. One should therefore make its seedlings plenty of room for a decent root growth are available.
At the time (2004), I had achieved very good results in the rearing of young plants pond plant baskets. So it was for me absolutely clear that my Forsythienstecklinge would develop rapidly in a pond planting basket. Also, I was sure that they would thereby reach a very impressive, wide Nebari. So I pots in the summer of 2003, all in pond plant baskets order. and in the summer of 2004 I pots to all cuttings in summer.
you read that right, in the summer.
I did this to determine how robust forsythia really are. On this day, I tortured my cuttings really. Under my roof terrace were above 40 ° C heat. The trees did hang the leaves anyway, since I usually only pour into the evening hours. But despite this ordeal, there were no failures. Until then, I had already potted forsythia in late May and nothing happened. But in early July that was daring. Now I ask, on the claim that one can repot forsythia twice a year. In the bonsai pot they cancel often in summer out because of the enormous growth of roots. In an older plant I've ever tasted, even here there were no problems. Whether this is always be made as possible, I need to prove but still with several attempts. This should be described here but please understand it only as an indication of the vitality of the forsythia. The best Umtopfzeit is still the end of April, right after flowering. Before repotting, you can remove all withered buds with your fingers. This ensures a better shoots from leaf buds on old wood.
victim shoots
forsythia have the urge to grow again and again new shoots from the roots emerge. If these Shoots at appropriate points of the stem base, they can very well grow as victims branches. They then help to broaden the base of the stem faster. These drives can not be too wide and remove them in time, so that no large-section scars. Very soon, then again there are new shoots, which in turn is used as a sacrificial branches. grow
Since Forsythia in Nebaribereich always new shoots, these can be very good as a "victim shoots" of course. They thicken well the stem base.
they have done their work, to cut it off. It will not take long to develop new shoots, which are then used again as a victim shoots.
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